It’s becoming more common every day for vehicles to come equipped with a hitch receiver and trailer hitch, but that doesn’t mean hitch classes and trailer hitch sizes are widely understood. It shouldn’t really be surprising that lots of vehicles have them considering even the most basic of SUVs and pickup trucks can tow thousands of pounds nowadays. You may even find smaller hitches on cars! Well, in this guide we’re going to dive headfirst into the world of hitch classes and trailer hitch sizes. This quick guide will teach you about the different hitch sizes, and what you can do with each.
Before getting right into the good stuff, we’d like to point something out. This is especially valid for Jeep Wrangler owners. Jeep’s tend to have two attachment methods for hitch assemblies. The first is a hitch-mounted to your frame. These are the most common, and are generally always reliable and super durable. The second is the jeep hitches built right into a bumper. Sure, off-road bumpers may be made from some super high quality steel or aluminum, but that doesn’t mean it’s safe to use them for towing. We definitely recommend you look into the bumper you have and double-check that you can tow safely with it.
So, how are hitches categorized? They’re categorized based on how much they can handle. Basically how high quality they are. For the purposes of this article we’ll be discussing class 1 hitches, class 2 hitches, class 3 hitches, and class 4 hitches. Class 1 hitches are the lowest grade hitch in terms of what it can handle. A class 1 hitch has a maximum tow rating of 2000 pounds, and can only handle 200 pounds of tongue weight. For those unfamiliar with what tongue weight means, it’s essentially the amount of pressure directly on the hitch. Class 1 hitch assemblies generally have the 1 and 1 quarter openings, and look fairly small. These hitch assemblies work very well for small vehicles that only want to tow small trailers or even bike racks. We recommend a 1-⅞ ball, along with a wiring harness with only 4 pins.
A class 2 hitch are stronger than class 1 hitch assemblies but share the same 1 and 1 quarter receivers. Class 2 hitches can tow 3500 pounds, and handle 350 pounds of tongue weight. A significant increase from class 1. Once again, the 4 pin harness will work great, but we recommend a 2” ball rather than the 1-⅛ ball. Class 2 is perfect for people who want to tow small boats, or heavier bicycle accessories. Also will work better on rougher roads.
Class 3 hitch assemblies are by far the most common class out there. These assemblies allow for a maximum tow rating of 5000 lbs, along with a 500 lb maximum tongue weight (although the tongue weight may differ depending on the vehicle and how the mount is secured. A class 3 hitch has a 2-inch receiver (2 inches by 2 inches) and works very well with the 2-inch ball. These hitch assemblies can handle a larger sized ball, but generally, 2 inches is enough. One super-large change from class 1 and 2 hitch assemblies is the 7-pin trailer harness requirement. Generally, trailers that are used among this class will have their own brakes (car trailers, heavy boat trailers, etc.) in order to save your brakes and transmission from strain. The extra mechanics here make it so that you need the extra pins.
Class 4 hitches also have a 2 inch receiver (2 inch by 2 inch), and are super common on large heavy-duty pickup trucks. Nowadays you can even get these on large SUVs like the Ford Expedition and Chevy Suburban. Class 4 hitches generally have a maximum tow rating of 10,000 pounds, and a maximum tongue weight rating of around 1000 to 1500 pounds. Class 4 will of course require a 7 pin trailer harness. Although it’s unlikely you’ll find this class of hitch on a Wrangler, it will come stock on the new Jeep Gladiators.
For more information on tow hitch ratings and tow hitch classes, we recommend you read through your owner’s manual for your Jeep or check the manufacturer’s specs on any aftermarket parts you may have purchased.